How Portland’s star seafood chef stays sustainable

Jacob Harth, of Portland’s Erizo, serves 20 courses of sustainable seafood at his acclaimed Oregon restaurant.

26 Jan, 2020FORTUNE.COM

How Portland’s star seafood chef stays sustainable

The fifth course to land on my table at Erizo, a restaurant celebrating its first year in Portland, Ore., comes on an oversize metal tray filled with ice, five dishes of chilled seafood each cradled in elegant seashells representing the shellfish within: clams, crab, and oysters.

The clams are horseneck—Oregon’s most common clam—maligned for their tough texture and more often used for bait than fine dining, though you would never know from this version served with green bamboo. The crab comes tossed in a custardy complementary sauce of acorn barnacles, which hitch a ride to the kitchen aboard enormous surf mussels (used for Bolognese over gnocchetti pasta in the following course). The oyster is actually only the bivalve’s adductor muscle, taken from oysters too old for selling as is. The bodies become oyster sauce, and just this piece comes to Erizo, where it is paired with wasabi and kelp barbecue sauce....

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